[ARDF] maps and polarization
Dale Hunt, WB6BYU
wb6byu at arrl.net
Tue Jun 12 07:23:57 PDT 2007
Hi Pete,
What you really need are Orienteering maps, made
by the local Orienteering club to international
standards. That is where you get all of the detail
that really makes the map useful, including how
fast one can run through the different types of
ground cover. If you have a local Orienteering
club, the first thing to do is to ask them what
areas they have mapped. The maps probably
won't be free, however, as it is expensive (and
time consuming) to make a map and keep it up to
date.
Lacking that you can try using a USGS topo
map of an appropriate scale. With a lot of the
map software available today you can print out
whatever portion you want in various scales.
This doesn't have the detail of an Orienteering
map, but it will still show contours and major
trails/roads. That will at least get you
started. We've even used park maps that just
show major features on occasion - not ideal,
but better than nothing. As you start getting
serious, you may have to resort to making your
own maps - we have several people on the list
who have done this and can help you.
Regarding polarization: some of the Europeans
say that vertical polarization is harder to hunt
in a forest due to reflections (and attenuation)
from vertical tree trunks. Personally I find the
biggest differece is the pattern of the antenna:
a short yagi will have a sharper pattern when
horizontally polarized than when vertical. With
a 2-element antenna such as a HB9CV or Moxon the
vertical beamwidth is very wide - something like
120 degrees. This requires a sensitive detector
to get an accurage bearing. The same antenna is
much sharper when used horizontally. For example,
I pulled up a 2-element yagi on EZNEC and it has
a half power beamwidth of 128 degrees vertically
polarized and 68 degrees horizontal. For my
standard 3-element yagi the corresponding numbers
are 100 degrees and 62 degrees.
Certainly for a practice there is no problem
using vertical polarization, but there are
advantages to using horizontal if folks are
getting serious. I mounted my set of transmitters
on wood lathe and tied flagging around the tops so
they look like survey stakes. The antenna is a
horizontal dipole made from #12 or #14 solid wire
(bare) which uses the top of the stake as an
insulator. This makes the entire unit self-
contained: I just bend the wires out horizontal
and stick it into the ground. I can carry the
whole set of 5 in one hand, and when I pick them
up I just bend the antenna wires down parallel to
the stake. The only problem with this approach
is that the antenna is only 18" above the ground,
but I can stick it in a bush or tree if I need
more height.
With the vertical whips you may want to add
a single ground radial wire hanging down from
the antenna jack - the transmitters by themselves
don't provide much in the way of a ground plane.
Good luck!
- Dale WB6BYU
pete sias wrote:
>
> Hello to all,
>
> Here in Kansas we are noted for being the flatlands
> but we do have wooded and hilly areas that dot the
> landscape. Some are suitable in my area for setting up
> a training area that can introduce people to radio
> orienteering and spur interest in the sport.
>
> With transmitters due in today from Marvin and boxes
> drilled and ready for them, I am wanting to get a test
> course set up but I need a source for topographic maps
> that fit the ARDF scale and are down loadable, i.e.
> free.
> My searches have not turned up much in the way of
> free.
> Can someone point me to a source that will allow me to
> pick the area and print out maps to use?
>
> Second, I notice the rules state the use of
> horizontal omni directional antennas on 2 meters. For
> ease of setting this course up for the first time I am
> using 1/4 wave vertical antennas. Is there a down side
> to this? Attenuation is more with vertical in foliage?
>
> Tnx in advance,
>
> Pete NØOY
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